Sugarvine

In times gone by, Oldham Street and its environs were second only to King Street for fashion shopping. With the 1970s came the Arndale centre -- and the end of the line for this premier thoroughfare. But since the bad days, millions of pounds have been pouring back into this area -- it's now cunningly re-named the Northern Quarter -- and slowly but surely it's getting better. Sure, the rough edges are still very much here and that means you won't exactly find this the ritziest part of town. But it is one of the most interesting.

Curry fans can find what has to be some of the most authentic eats going. For £3-£4 (£1 for excellent starters), you can tuck in at one of the many unlicensed cafes offering sustenance to people who live and work in the area. These places are like Rusholme used to be before it got the crowds. They tend to be open only until about 4pm. Menus are small but they really are what the Pakistani community actually eat. Venues worth checking out include the Al-Faisal on Hilton Street and the Shalimar on High Street. The real 'hidden gem' is the curiously-named This 'n That. It's tucked away on Soap Street and rightly famed for a curry mix 'n match that costs around £3. You'll find good vegetarian choices too (chickpea curry, channa dhal) and samosas and kebabs are made on the premises. A little further out (and a lot more upmarket) is the Nawaab on Rochdale Road (pictured above). Part of a group that was founded in Bradford in 1988, this is another restaurant with a clientele (50% Asian) that speaks volumes about the quality of the food. The manager has catered in the past for Imran Khan and Princess Di so you know you are in for a treat.

Many of the old mills and warehouses in the Northern Quarter are currently being converted into swanky flats and in a couple of years you likely won't be able to move for upmarket restaurants. But standing very much alone in this respect at present is the much-praised The Market Restaurant in Smithfield. A fixture since the early 1980s, it's done out in a cosy, cottagey style and the food, which has won several awards, is modern British. Somewhat surprisingly, it's only open for dinner Friday and Saturday nights so you will have to book in advance. Lots of hearty soups like lentil and chestnut, substantial meat and fish dishes include fillet of beef with horseradish, cottage pie with pickled cabbage and vegetarian choices like 'Parsnips Molly Parkin' -- parsnips layered with tomato and Gruyere cheese and baked. The Market is above all famed for its puddings. Those on offer at present include pistachio pavlova and chocolate amaretto mousse. Budget for around £35 a head with wine for a three-course meal.

By way of contrast, Bar Fringe, just down the road on Swan Street, is a Belgian-themed pub with beers like Hoegarden, Kriek fruit beers, and an interesting range of European lagers. On a day-to-day basis the food is largely confined to baguettes and lunchtime snacks. But there are often special Belgian nights, when faves like mussels and frites or sausages are served.

The Northern Quarter's epicentre is Tib Street -- once lined with pet shops but now very much up-and-coming with several bars and places to eat. Good, basic food is available at Bar Centro. Staples include carrot, parsnip and ginger soup and chicken and chorizo casserole. Here, you'll also find dependable fare like steak and kidney pies and baked potatoes with various fillings. It's just £3.95 for soup and a sandwich, no more than £5 for main courses. This ground floor café-bar is welcoming and there is plenty of seating with a good selection of beers and wines. It has a Bohemian feel and is popular with a younger crowd.

Those wishing to pay homage to Manchester's musical past will want to visit Dry Bar on Oldham Street, once part of the Factory Records empire. Gone are the days when Peter Hook and the rest of New Order used to hang out here but it's still a draw for students and scallies. Elsewhere on Oldham Street, its very much bargain basement as far as food and drink goes. But if you want to stoke up on carbohydrate then the Night and Day Café is worth a look. There's live music in the evenings and the crowd tends to be creative and pretty eclectic.

Bear in mind that many of these venues are not places to 'dine out.' You hang out, have a beer or a big plate of scoff. But when cash is tight the food, though simple, is good. Stuff like chillis and stews and vegetable curries. Fancier fare can be found at the Love Saves The Day delicatessen, which is owned by former Simply Red man Chris Joyce. This is not the most obvious place for an upmarket food shop - but in the months and years ahead, expect it to clean up big-style.