My wife HATES driving in Leeds. You may ask “What’s that got to do with a restaurant review?” Read on! On Monday June 7th we booked an ‘early doors’ meal at the Sheesh Mahal in Kirkstall. We did this because the Leeds Coeliac Group had advised us they were planning a social do there, and as Anne is a coeliac, and both Anne and I like curries, we decided to ‘test drive’ the place first. As we approached nearer and nearer to Leeds, Anne (she’s the driver; I’m partially sighted) got more and more agitated. “I HATE Leeds!” became a frequent chant, not helped by slow moving traffic caused by a broken-down lorry at a roundabout on the ring road. As a grumpy coeliac and a grumpy partially sighted diabetic (me) finally arrived at the Sheesh Mahal you could say that the atmosphere was a bit strained, to say the least. Hardly the best start to the evening! And hardly the sort of customers the owners would have cheered to see. Nevertheless we were greeted royally, like old friends. The regulation popadums were provided, and the drinks order taken (a Cobra, and a white wine, even though wine isn’t on the drinks list). At this point, and with a heavy heart because I’ve seen this situation go badly wrong before, I mentioned to the very courteous waiter that my wife is a coeliac, and also has a violent life-threatening reaction to mushrooms. “OK,” he said, “no problem”. “No,” I said, “let me explain, she can’t have anything with wheat flour in the sauces. She can only have the sauces if they’re wheat free – if you use gram flour you’re OK, but not wheat flour”. “OK,” repeated the waiter “just wait a moment please”. Waiting for the inevitable “we can’t cope” reply, we were astounded when The Boss (as we later found him to be) arrived and stated that with the exception of obvious breads, like chapattis, puri and nan bread, the rest of the menu was almost certainly GF (gluten free), but if we’d like to make a choice he’d personally check the ingredients. We were amazed, thankful, and immediately hungry! Now I said earlier that Anne and I like curries: I normally favour the hot ones, but Anne likes the mild and delicately flavoured ones. Enter hurdle number two. Most of the dishes of the menu are described as “medium”, which in the past have proved problematical for Anne. When the waiter arrived, we asked if it was possible to have a mild version of dishes described as ‘medium’. “No problem!” I began to wonder if this was a stock reply, but he went on “we cook everything to order, so you can have what you like in any strength you like”. For starters, Anne ordered a Fish Pakora, and I ordered a Mixed Kebab (seekh and shami). This was to be followed by a Gobi Bhindi (cauliflower with okra) with pillau rice for Anne, and a Chicken Tikka Masala with Aloo nan and Bombay potatoes for me. Perhaps not very adventurous, but I’ve eaten them so many times before I tend to use them as a yardstick by which to measure the flavours of the restaurant. During the short wait, The Boss appeared and asked how sensitive Anne was to wheat flour, as he couldn’t be absolutely certain that the oil in which the pakora was fried had not previously been used with wheat. Now that’s what I call attention to detail! We decided to risk it. We can only describe the flavours and the quality of the cooking as awesome! I have NEVER tasted anything like them (and I’m a Bradfordian by birth, so I’ve had more than my fair share of curries!). Anne assured me that her meal was sumptuous, which was attested to by the speed with which it started to disappear – however, the portions are sizeable, so we both had to slow down a bit towards the end. During the meal we were tenderly cared for by the waiters – unobtrusive, but always ready to help, to check that the food was just right for us, or to respond to a request for more drinks. We couldn’t manage a sweet, just a lot of contented groaning over a coffee (excellent, not like the acidic brown dishwater often served nowadays). We chatted to The Boss afterwards, who even helped Anne to work out which was the best way to head back out of Leeds towards Horsforth. After we paid the modest and reasonable bill, and as we chugged contentedly away from the Sheesh Mahal, to my complete amazement Anne offered the highest of compliments I’ve ever heard – “Maybe Leeds isn’t so bad after all – we could always come back again. Soon!” - and we will!
Azram’s Sheesh Mahal – Leeds City Centre