THERE'S nothing like an incomprehensible menu to transport you to another country for a few hours, and forget about dark nights and drizzle.
At least that's a feeling I get while staring up at a board marked 'Piatti del Giorno' near my table in an alcove of Bianco's in Torwood Street, Torquay.
For anybody with less than than an Al Pacino-level of Italian, the phrase means 'daily specials' — or more literally 'plates of the day'.
Such is the Italian way of making even the relatively mundane sound appealing, as if your modest hatchback has been given a Ferrari engine.
Together with the surroundings of dark wood and bare stone, it is enough to make you feel like you have stepped off a street in Rome or Florence — not a blustery South Devon.
The dishes outlined on the board are equally mysterious to non-Italian speakers, at least until the waiter arrives.
Soon I understand that 'Spigola alle Erbe' (£18.95) is a dish of sea bass with an olive oil and herb sauce, and that 'arragosta' is lobster.
Dishes on the menu are also in Italian, but with descriptions in English. Not that 'Ravioli Ricotta E Spinaci' (£9.95) needs much translation (it's ravioli with ricotta and spinach in case you are wondering).
But ordering in Italian is just one of the genuine touches provided by owner Mauro Pettinelli at his cosy trattoria.
On top of 'antipasti' starters, there are lighter options from a separate 'to share' section, titled 'Da Mangiare Insiemi'. Among the dishes is marinated olives (£3.45).
There are more than 30 choices for main course (including the specials), providing something for virtually everyone.
There are also several Italian beers to choose from and a reasonable wine list, though only house wine is available by the glass.
There also are several 'deluxe Italian cognacs' to finish off, if so desired.
Pleasantly, these slices of Italiana come off without any pretension or cliche. You can also order a bitter from the drinks menu, or a fillet steak.
Being so close to Torquay Harbour Marina, however, it should be no surprise that the restaurant lists seafood as a speciality, with plenty of choices on the 'Pesce del Giorno' (fish specials) board.
To test this claim out, my dinepanion decides on the sea bass. I opt for the ricotta ravioli.
Individual packets of rosemary breadsticks on the bread plate of every table are great for fighting off any hunger pangs, and a bread basket is also brought around. Not that there is much of a wait on the food. The sea bass is soft and well presented, with a fresh salad and vegetables. There is a drizzling of the herby oil sauce, not a soaking. It falls apart as soon as touched by a knife.
The ravioli is chunky, with a rich tomato sauce, and parmesan is spooned over at the table. Though the ricotta and spinach is a touch dry, the sauce compensates and the three flavours work well together. At half the price of the sea bass, it offers a value-for-money option.
Despite the hearty portions served up for the main course, there are still a dozen options for dessert. Two have already sold out.
We opt for a chocolate mousse to share. It is rich and thick, with a sugary sauce and a whipped cream top — enough for two.
In fact, the dessert sums up the food: tasty, without pushing back the boundaries of gastronomy. And certainly enough to forget about drizzle for an evening.
Herald Express
Lars Wallin
Fantastic food, excellent service ! I’m dining all over Europe and this is one of the best I’ve ever visited.
Mike D
I was looking for a nice Italian Restaurant to celebrate a family birthday on a short break to Torquay. In the absence of any reviews I chose Biancos and what an excellent choice it proved to be. Biancos is a small, intimate restaurant close to the harbour. The quality of the food is superb (both fish and meat dishes sampled) and the portions are more than ample! The staff were very attentive, even peeling the King prawns for my 10 year old son to allow his mother to commence her starter in peace. I have rated Biancos as "pricey" but this was largely due to an expensive bottle of wine selected and overall it was very good value for money. If we return to Torquay we will certainly be heading for Biancos.
